If you missed the previous two posts, I talked about the design process for our new closet, and the purchase list and building process. Check ’em out! 

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Just as a reminder here’s where we started. Our closet is a small 59″ deep by 71″ wide walk-in that previously was outfitted with rubbermaid shelving.

closet-mess-before

Two weeks worth of planning, two weeks of purchasing, building and painting, just under $500 and here’s our new extremely efficient and organized closet!

DIY Closet Built-ins for under $500

Much better right? I’m in love!

Each of the towers is fastened against the wall with an L bracket on top of the tower so we don’t have to worry about it falling over.  The towers are very quick and easy to remove should we eventually decide to move some walls around when we remodel the adjacent bathroom.

To trim out each of the towers, we used the nail gun to fasten some shingle molding on the top of the towers, and baseboard molding along the bottoms. I also used some extra 1×2 to trim the front of the shelf that sits directly over the top drawers in each tower so that we wouldn’t have a awkward gap between the shelf and drawer.

Trim over Drawers

We chose closet rod supports that also supported a shelf on top so that we would have two shelves along the back wall. Those are trimmed out with simple 1x2s.

Man's -top-shelf-shoes

Along the bottom of the back wall of the closet we re-used some ClosetMaid shoe organizers we previously owned.  The shoe organizers are made out of particleboard, which is fine for shoes, but we had horrible luck with a few sets of the matching drawers over the years that just fell apart.  During the design process, I struggled with how to use all the corners in the closet, while not blocking off access to the clothes/shoes in each corner. The towers are only 15″ deep, so we can still reach each corner fine and just put the clothes and shoes that we use the least, furthest into the corner.

Shoes

Montana’s side has a thin tower with just shelves so that its symmetrical with my side. He has more folded clothes than hanging.

Man's side of closet - top shelf - shoes

I needed a small area for dresses, across from Montana’s thin shelves, and used some extra pieces of wood to put in shelves above and below to match his side better and maximize efficiency. womens-side shelf-above-dressesshelf-below-dresses

We’re liking the cedar floor so far, it gives a great fresh scent to the closet instead of smelling stale and I don’t have to worry about bugs eating away at our wool!

Cedar Floor

Montana did an awesome job on the recessed lights. They make a HUGE difference in the room since the light is coming from multiple directions now instead of just from the wall above the closet door.

Recessed Lights in Closet Recessed Lights in Closet

Now that we we have a better organized system, we still have leftover room, and thats after we put back ALL of the clothes that were in there before, AND added all of our shoes that used to take up their own closet!!!  In the future, we can still add another shelf on each of the side walls above the shoes that are there now if it turns out we need more shelves. We hope you like it as much as we do!

If you missed my post on our design process for the Master Closet, click over here to catch up

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Armed with a shopping list I wrote on a paint sample, we set out to Home Depot to purchase everything we’d need for the closet. We had all the plywood ripped length-wise at the store so that we could fit everything in the Escape to take it home.

shopping list for home depot

Here’s a Home Depot – Shopping Cart with a complete materials list for 3 towers. (Our closet is 59″ deep and 71″ wide) Some things we bought at Lowes because they ended up being noticeably cheaper, or they weren’t carried at Home Depot. For example, the drawer pulls I chose were about 30% cheaper at Lowes. Also, Home Depot doesn’t carry the Kreg brand.  We already owned a Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Systembut we still needed a jig for creating shelf pin holes so we could have adjustable shelves. I read reviews on a bunch of different shelf pin jigs and I’m happy I went with the KREG Shelf Pin Drilling Jig because it is a great product!  We also bought the recessed swivel lights at Lowes, but turns out they’re cheaper on Amazon.  We already had painting supplies on hand since we used the same paint as for our trim the house, Behr Ultra White in Satin. We also already had wood glue and nails for the nail gun. 

All total, our purchases came out to just under $500. The 10% military/veterans discount at Lowes and Home Depot really comes in handy on large jobs! $500 is not exactly cheap by any means, but it’s about the same price as we would have spent on the cheapest option 25% off at Ikea (the algot system), and it’s fraction of what we would have spent on similar pre-made products of lesser quality.

One thing that could have drastically cut down the price of our build was the plywood used. We chose Purebond Plywood for a few reasons. Cost was definitely a factor against it and I will say that we considered lower quality plywood and MDF to save money. MDF would have saved us about $100, but the boards at Home Depot were all fraying on the edges, and I was afraid that would give us some issues based on how many cuts we’d have to do. There were lower grades of plywood, but they were all warped, or really rough and knotty. The factors going for Purebond were that its Formaldehyde-free, made in America, and has a BEAUTIFUL smooth veneer coat. In the end we decided the extra money was well worth it for a much superior cabinet-grade product. Believe me…. at over $45 a sheet, we thought about it for quite some time. (Keep in mind material costs vary across the country so it may be cheaper where you live.)

Another area where we could have saved about $30 would have been by getting the basic grade closet rods instead of the heavy duty brushed nickel. I liked the brushed nickel  because it matches our hardware and really felt much more sturdy. I was afraid the basic grade closet rod would have sagged from the weight of our clothes since it was going to be across a 71″ wall. We could have added more supports for the cheaper rod, but then you negate the savings.

I took off a day that Friday from work so that we could hopefully finish in one weekend.  Montana got started tearing apart the closet upstairs and installing the recessed lights.

 demo-closet

Tiffany and I started by priming all the plywood on the inside since I figured that would be easier than doing individual pieces once they were cut.

primed cabinet pieces plywood

Then I started measuring and cutting, and measuring and cutting… to be exact, there were 127 pieces to be cut to size. In case you don’t fully appreciate my pain right now, I’ll repeat that… 1  2  7  pieces. Needless to say Day 1 for me was mostly measuring and cutting, and putting pieces into organized piles so I wouldn’t forget which pieces went with what. (TIP: If you’re building with a friend, make sure the person that is most OCD is in charge of measuring and cutting and organizing the piles.)

After cutting all my pieces, I started drilling all the shelf pin holes.  We decided to do adjustable shelves so we didn’t lock ourselves into something that ended up not working out for us later on. The Kreg Shelf Pin Jig is super easy to work with. It comes with an adjustable bit, a fence to hold it square against the edge of your board, and a locating pin to make sure your holes are all evenly spaced when you move your jig down the board. You also really need to use a clamp so you don’t accidentally move your jig in the middle of drilling a hole.  Its easiest to start with your jig flush against the end of your board and drill only the hole furthest from the end of the board. Clearly you don’t need a shelf thats only 1″ tall, but 6″ in is pretty good.

Shelf Pin Hole 1Then you you just pull off your jig, and set the locating pin in the hole you drilled, and slide the first hole of your jig over the locating pin. You can only drill 5 of the 6 holes each time you move the jig, since you always have 1 of the holes used by the locating pin. This is tedious… try not to fall asleep.

Drilling Shelf Pin holes

Next came drilling pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of my tower frame pieces. You want the pocket holes to be facing the outside of the tower (top of the top and bottom of the bottom) so no one sees them and you don’t have to fill them with plugs or wood filler. The towers were 72″ high without the base, so quite awkward for one person to manage. Tiffany helped me get the boards all squared up and we used wood glue before securing with corner clampsand pocket hole screws. Because we were putting drawers in 2 of the 3 towers, getting the tower square was very important. I wish we would have had a few more corner clamps to help us along,  it turned out ok, but definitely not perfect.

Tower Frame built

Next came 1 x 2 pieces that I wood glued and pocket screwed together on the backside before using the nail gun to secure the entire face frame to the front. The top of each of the towers got a 1 x 3 instead of 1 x 2 since it looked a little more polished. We don’t own a jig saw yet so we left them square.  

Tower with Face Trim

The base is made out of 2 x 2s and was cut to be just as tall as the baseboard molding we picked out, 3.25″, thus making the total height of the towers just over 75″ tall.  Ana makes a complete rectangle bases for her towers, but I would have had to buy an extra piece of 2 x 2 and decided to save a few dollars by just putting a brace across the middle of the tower making an H instead of a rectangle. It seems to be sturdy enough so far. Tower with Trim and Base

 

While I continued in the basement Montana was upstairs installing the cedar plank floor using the Cedar Safe Closet Liners. Unfortunately, it looks like the quality is really not what it used to be with this brand. Most of the boards were warped just enough that the tongue and groove ended up being mostly useless. The boards wouldn’t stay clicked together and if you tried to pull them into each other to force them straight they would end up cracking.  So, we ended up with some gaps between the boards, which will inevitably collect dirt, and doesn’t look 100% good.   Keep in mind though, that the manufacturer recommends they be used for closet walls or ceilings, not floors. Some people would say thats because the walls and ceiling cover more square footage forcing you to spend more money on the product.  I think they get away with making an inferior product by not mentioning it for floor use because on the wall or ceiling it doesn’t really matter as much if the boards are warped because you’ll be putting clothes in front of it and won’t be able to see the problem areas.

The closet’s been done about a week now and with us walking on it every day, we haven’t seen any boards split or crack since the installation.  We’ll see how they wear over time and as I said in the previous post, decide whether to keep them or remove them when we redo the rest of the floors on that level. In the meantime they look okay, and they smell wonderful. All in all, it was only $60 for the floor and for that price I think its satisfactory for now. cedar-floor-2 cedar-plank-floor1

It would figure that the most frustrating part of the entire closet remodel is the part where I apparently took no pictures… Drawers… those darn drawers. I seriously question what made me decide that we should do 7 drawers. The tower on my side of the closet got 3 drawers all 6″ tall. Montana got 2 drawers that were 10″ tall and 2 drawers that were 6″ tall. Again, the drawers need to be extremely square so that you don’t have issues using them with your drawer slides. It was miserable. They are literally the only reason I’m not ready to go to Home Depot tomorrow to start on built-ins for our office. SERIOUSLY MISERABLE.

First, I built all the drawer boxes, and then I built the faces of the drawers. Since I took no pictures, you’ll have to pop over to Ana’s blog to see the tutorials on each. Just picture lots and lots of pocket holes, and lots and lots of glue.

Finally, comes painting! It took us about 3 coats, which used up a few days.  Note to self…don’t do built-ins in the dead of winter and force yourself to paint in the basement when you could use your awesome paint sprayer to paint outside saving you tons of time!  Also… don’t decide to do a project that takes over your basement gym right after new years…oops.

basement-painting-zone

Finally we were able to start installing the closet rods on the back wall of the closet and carrying the towers upstairs.

start-tower-install

It took me most of a day to install all the drawers… but alas they finally came together.

drawer-installation

Which is good… because I was going crazy living with this for two weeks.

Messy Bedroom

Check back soon for the final reveal!

I’m a bad blogger. We’ve actually done quite a few projects around Stoneybrooke in the past few months but I am constantly having an inner debate between waiting to post until “the final reveal” so as to not spoil the surprise of the end look, and posting piece by piece as we work at the pace of real life.  Since there are still a few more details to take care of before I post a photo of the dining room progress overall, I thought I’d show you the update to our dining room chairs. This is one of the easiest, albeit time-consuming projects ever.
Dining Chairs Before Green White Black Gray Grey

I picked up these bad boys on Craiglist for $5 a pop (that’s right… 8 chairs for $40!!!)  I was pretty stoked to say the least.  They had been sitting out in the rain for a few days before we picked them up so the screws and brackets were a little rusty and the clear coat was peeling up, but that wasn’t a big deal to me since were planning to take them apart.  Here’s a little play-by-play of the excitement.

Step 1: Remove the Nasty

Removing the old fabric and crusty foam was a long process. I recommend you do this step while catching up on your overloaded DVR with a bottle of wine.  I started pulling out each and every one of the old staples on the first couple of seats, but gave up after 2 seats. Some of the plywood was not in great condition because of water damage and pulling out the staples was pulling the plywood apart. Because I don’t plan on keeping these chairs forever, just for a few years until we’re done doing major updates to house and have more room in the budget for furniture, I wasn’t terribly concerned with the chairs being PERFECT.  You don’t see that side of the chair anyway so it’s not a huge deal. If you’re a perfectionist, then have at it… and then come over and do some of my projects for me! *hehe*

table-with-wood-cushions

I used my palm sander on the chairs as much as possible and then did some hand sanding for areas that were hard to get to.  I hate sanding as much, if not more than the next person, so I mainly did the sanding to get the flaky water damaged spots on the wood removed.  Then I used a deglosser on the rest of the wood to soften up the remaining varnish so the new paint would stick.

Step 2: Prime!

This is one of those time where I thought I should probably prime, decided to skip it because of the time crunch I was under, and totally regret it! Always go with what your gut tells you.

Step 3: Paint

I really, really, really wanted to spray paint these chairs, again because of the time crunch, but couldn’t find a color available in a spray that would whisper sweet nothings to me. So, I sucked it up and enlisted slave labor my friends to help.  We did two coats of Valspar Signature Interior Paint/Primer in “High Speed Steel,” waiting a full 24 hours before putting on the second coat. I haven’t used Valspar before but it had good coverage and drying time.  Because its been pretty cold around here and our only time was in the evenings, we had to paint in the basement.  This was not so much a problem for the Valspar since it’s a low VOC paint, but Montana was pretty sure I was going to kill us all when I did the clear coat down there. We’re all living still… just with a few less brain cells.

Dining Chairs Painted Gray Grey

Step 4: Protective Coat

For the top coat I used my favorite Polycrylic by Minewax, that comes either in a spray can or different sized cans for rolling/brushing.  I opted to splurge a little and buy the spray.  I was able to do 2 coats on 8 chairs with only a can and a half so I think it was well worth the few extra dollars to save easily 5 hours of painting time.  This was when I realized not priming (even though my paint had primer in it) was a mistake because some of the red was showing through.  After a few minutes of pouting and self loathing I decided that the lack of perfection on the chairs actually made them look more rustic which is kind of what I was going for anyway.  I was originally going to do two colors of paint on the chairs and rough up the edges to show the second color but the lack of time made me stick with one color.

minewax polycrylic

Step 5: Reupholstering Cushions

Supes easy.  Cut fabric and lay flat, set foam on top of fabric, set wood seat on top of foam, staple. Boom your done!

Ha. To quote Cher Horowitz, As if. Insert cursing the day the electric stapler was invented every few staples as it gets stuck and you have to completely unassemble the stapler to get the stuck staple out. Repeat x100. Step 5A: Go to hardware store and buy an old-fashioned non-electric heavy-duty stapler. (We haven’t done this step yet).  *If anyone has had an electric stapler that they actually like, please comment away.  We bought 2 staplers and they were both HORRIBLE even though they were $50! Not cool!

We used 2″ foam so that they’re nice and cushy and won’t be completely flat after a few years of use.

Green Eco Friendly Cushion Foam

For the fabric I chose a toile from Hancock Fabric which I got for 50% off at the Labor Day sale. Score!

My main tip for stapling is that when you start, staple first in the middle and push the cushion down a bit. If you don’t push the cushion down, then when you flip them right side up, the edge on the foam will be very square.  After you staple the first side, staple the opposite edge before the adjacent edges while making sure you pull the fabric tight. Wait to staple the corner sections until all the sides are done and tuck the fabric under itself like you’re wrapping a present. I gave myself an extra inch of fabric more than I needed to help me pull it tight. You can cut off the extra fabric when you’re done stapling.

how to reupholster dining cushions

I also decided to use a waterproofing spray on the cushions when we were done since the fabric I used was white. Hopefully it helps with spills, If not, I bought an extra yard or so of fabric so I can recover them if necessary.

Step 6: Reassemble chairs and brush your shoulders off. You so fancy.

Dining Chairs After Green White Black Gray Grey

 

And now for the Before and After…

Dining Chairs Before After Green White Black Gray Grey

Hopefully soon we’ll have our table refinished and then I can do a proper “progress” shoot of the dining room. Until then…

 

 

We’ve finally gotten around to starting to paint out house and its so nice to see what a huge difference some work and a few cans of paint can do for a room! Choosing the right paint color is hard. Mistakes happen even when you think you’ve really got the shade pinned down to exactly what you want. The good thing is that a can of paint is relatively cheap and so you can always start over.

choosing paint colors for your home

How do you go about picking colors for your house? Designers recommend that you choose and stick to 4-5 main colors for all the rooms in your house. That way it’s easier to make everything flow well from room to room.

Montana and I (ok, really just me) had a general idea of what colors we wanted to paint before we even moved in since I’d been thinking about it constantly for the last year. In general I wanted a soothing neutral in the hallways and bedrooms, something spa-like for the bathrooms, and something bright and cheerful in the living room, dining room and kitchen. I settled on gray, teal, green, yellow, and pure white. I’m a stickler for uber bright pure whites. There’s nothing that drives me crazy faster than a dirty looking white.

I ran across this palette from a great blog called Design Seeds and LOVE it. It’s basically exactly what I was imagining.

Rachel from Lovely Clusters also does a great job putting together palettes from pretty photos.

Maybe you already have a favorite pillow or painting that has great colors you want to use. John and Sherry from Young House Love based their color palette off a clearance napkin. Anything goes.

If you have a favorite brand of paint, most of brand websites will let you upload a photo of your inspiration and tell you what colors of their paint are found in the photo. I know a lot of professionals swear by Benjamin Moore. Honestly, I was going to give their paint a try, but the only time their local store is open and I’m not at work is for a few hours on Saturday. This girl needs to be able to shop for house stuff in the evenings, so BM lost my business. If you love the BM their tool is available here.

choosing benjamin moore paint colors for your houese or home

Glidden calls their tool “My Colortopia“.

choosing glildden paint colors for your home or house

My personal favorite brand of paint is Behr. Montana actually laughed at me when I said I wanted to try BM a few months ago. He’s very much an “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” kind of guy. Me… not so much. I’m always wanting to try different products. But anyhow, as I told you above BM didn’t fit my schedule so I’m staying forever with Behr. They have an awesome free iPad app that is great for wasting away your evenings.

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Same as the other brands you can upload you’re own photo or choose from one of their stock photos…

choosing paint colors for your home

look at paints in color families…

choosing paint colors for your home

get suggestions on complementary colors and save your favorites….

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and even preview your selected colors in the room type and style that you’re planning. Its fabulous!20120911-083957.jpg

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Major time suck! I told you so! But it’s also nice to save your colors and come back to them. That way if you’re painting furniture and you want to have a slightly different shade of a complementary color to your palette without using the exact colors of your palette you’ve got help!

Behr has two main lines of paint. Premium Plus, the more economical line, we’ve used for our ceilings. We buy it in the two gallon cans because it’s slightly cheaper but not as heavy as the five gallon. So far in our experience it took three coats to cover over a green ceiling without any primer, and two coats for cream or white ceilings. Side note: the Premium Plus is No VOC which is exciting because you don’t feel like you’re going to pass out or kill too many brain cells while painting. 🙂

For our walls we’re using the Premium Plus Ultra which is their Paint and Primer in one. We love love love it. In our old condo rental we used it to cover over a dark orange with light tan and it covered in one coat. It was a miracle. In the house we’ve been using two coats just to ensure we haven’t missed anything since we own it (well the bank does for another 29.5 years but you know what I mean). It’s Low VOC and I don’t notice any smell. Another happy face. 🙂

I’ll back soon with photos of some newly painted rooms. Yay for pretty walls!

Who gets stuck picking out colors? Do you jump right in and commit?

***This is not a sponsored post. I just love me some Behr. I feel bad that I almost cheated on them with BM. Thank you Home Depot for being open until 10pm so I can fulfill my need for your lovely aisles of paint when I should be sleeping.***