If you missed my post on our design process for the Master Closet, click over here to catch up

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Armed with a shopping list I wrote on a paint sample, we set out to Home Depot to purchase everything we’d need for the closet. We had all the plywood ripped length-wise at the store so that we could fit everything in the Escape to take it home.

shopping list for home depot

Here’s a Home Depot – Shopping Cart with a complete materials list for 3 towers. (Our closet is 59″ deep and 71″ wide) Some things we bought at Lowes because they ended up being noticeably cheaper, or they weren’t carried at Home Depot. For example, the drawer pulls I chose were about 30% cheaper at Lowes. Also, Home Depot doesn’t carry the Kreg brand.  We already owned a Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Systembut we still needed a jig for creating shelf pin holes so we could have adjustable shelves. I read reviews on a bunch of different shelf pin jigs and I’m happy I went with the KREG Shelf Pin Drilling Jig because it is a great product!  We also bought the recessed swivel lights at Lowes, but turns out they’re cheaper on Amazon.  We already had painting supplies on hand since we used the same paint as for our trim the house, Behr Ultra White in Satin. We also already had wood glue and nails for the nail gun. 

All total, our purchases came out to just under $500. The 10% military/veterans discount at Lowes and Home Depot really comes in handy on large jobs! $500 is not exactly cheap by any means, but it’s about the same price as we would have spent on the cheapest option 25% off at Ikea (the algot system), and it’s fraction of what we would have spent on similar pre-made products of lesser quality.

One thing that could have drastically cut down the price of our build was the plywood used. We chose Purebond Plywood for a few reasons. Cost was definitely a factor against it and I will say that we considered lower quality plywood and MDF to save money. MDF would have saved us about $100, but the boards at Home Depot were all fraying on the edges, and I was afraid that would give us some issues based on how many cuts we’d have to do. There were lower grades of plywood, but they were all warped, or really rough and knotty. The factors going for Purebond were that its Formaldehyde-free, made in America, and has a BEAUTIFUL smooth veneer coat. In the end we decided the extra money was well worth it for a much superior cabinet-grade product. Believe me…. at over $45 a sheet, we thought about it for quite some time. (Keep in mind material costs vary across the country so it may be cheaper where you live.)

Another area where we could have saved about $30 would have been by getting the basic grade closet rods instead of the heavy duty brushed nickel. I liked the brushed nickel  because it matches our hardware and really felt much more sturdy. I was afraid the basic grade closet rod would have sagged from the weight of our clothes since it was going to be across a 71″ wall. We could have added more supports for the cheaper rod, but then you negate the savings.

I took off a day that Friday from work so that we could hopefully finish in one weekend.  Montana got started tearing apart the closet upstairs and installing the recessed lights.

 demo-closet

Tiffany and I started by priming all the plywood on the inside since I figured that would be easier than doing individual pieces once they were cut.

primed cabinet pieces plywood

Then I started measuring and cutting, and measuring and cutting… to be exact, there were 127 pieces to be cut to size. In case you don’t fully appreciate my pain right now, I’ll repeat that… 1  2  7  pieces. Needless to say Day 1 for me was mostly measuring and cutting, and putting pieces into organized piles so I wouldn’t forget which pieces went with what. (TIP: If you’re building with a friend, make sure the person that is most OCD is in charge of measuring and cutting and organizing the piles.)

After cutting all my pieces, I started drilling all the shelf pin holes.  We decided to do adjustable shelves so we didn’t lock ourselves into something that ended up not working out for us later on. The Kreg Shelf Pin Jig is super easy to work with. It comes with an adjustable bit, a fence to hold it square against the edge of your board, and a locating pin to make sure your holes are all evenly spaced when you move your jig down the board. You also really need to use a clamp so you don’t accidentally move your jig in the middle of drilling a hole.  Its easiest to start with your jig flush against the end of your board and drill only the hole furthest from the end of the board. Clearly you don’t need a shelf thats only 1″ tall, but 6″ in is pretty good.

Shelf Pin Hole 1Then you you just pull off your jig, and set the locating pin in the hole you drilled, and slide the first hole of your jig over the locating pin. You can only drill 5 of the 6 holes each time you move the jig, since you always have 1 of the holes used by the locating pin. This is tedious… try not to fall asleep.

Drilling Shelf Pin holes

Next came drilling pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of my tower frame pieces. You want the pocket holes to be facing the outside of the tower (top of the top and bottom of the bottom) so no one sees them and you don’t have to fill them with plugs or wood filler. The towers were 72″ high without the base, so quite awkward for one person to manage. Tiffany helped me get the boards all squared up and we used wood glue before securing with corner clampsand pocket hole screws. Because we were putting drawers in 2 of the 3 towers, getting the tower square was very important. I wish we would have had a few more corner clamps to help us along,  it turned out ok, but definitely not perfect.

Tower Frame built

Next came 1 x 2 pieces that I wood glued and pocket screwed together on the backside before using the nail gun to secure the entire face frame to the front. The top of each of the towers got a 1 x 3 instead of 1 x 2 since it looked a little more polished. We don’t own a jig saw yet so we left them square.  

Tower with Face Trim

The base is made out of 2 x 2s and was cut to be just as tall as the baseboard molding we picked out, 3.25″, thus making the total height of the towers just over 75″ tall.  Ana makes a complete rectangle bases for her towers, but I would have had to buy an extra piece of 2 x 2 and decided to save a few dollars by just putting a brace across the middle of the tower making an H instead of a rectangle. It seems to be sturdy enough so far. Tower with Trim and Base

 

While I continued in the basement Montana was upstairs installing the cedar plank floor using the Cedar Safe Closet Liners. Unfortunately, it looks like the quality is really not what it used to be with this brand. Most of the boards were warped just enough that the tongue and groove ended up being mostly useless. The boards wouldn’t stay clicked together and if you tried to pull them into each other to force them straight they would end up cracking.  So, we ended up with some gaps between the boards, which will inevitably collect dirt, and doesn’t look 100% good.   Keep in mind though, that the manufacturer recommends they be used for closet walls or ceilings, not floors. Some people would say thats because the walls and ceiling cover more square footage forcing you to spend more money on the product.  I think they get away with making an inferior product by not mentioning it for floor use because on the wall or ceiling it doesn’t really matter as much if the boards are warped because you’ll be putting clothes in front of it and won’t be able to see the problem areas.

The closet’s been done about a week now and with us walking on it every day, we haven’t seen any boards split or crack since the installation.  We’ll see how they wear over time and as I said in the previous post, decide whether to keep them or remove them when we redo the rest of the floors on that level. In the meantime they look okay, and they smell wonderful. All in all, it was only $60 for the floor and for that price I think its satisfactory for now. cedar-floor-2 cedar-plank-floor1

It would figure that the most frustrating part of the entire closet remodel is the part where I apparently took no pictures… Drawers… those darn drawers. I seriously question what made me decide that we should do 7 drawers. The tower on my side of the closet got 3 drawers all 6″ tall. Montana got 2 drawers that were 10″ tall and 2 drawers that were 6″ tall. Again, the drawers need to be extremely square so that you don’t have issues using them with your drawer slides. It was miserable. They are literally the only reason I’m not ready to go to Home Depot tomorrow to start on built-ins for our office. SERIOUSLY MISERABLE.

First, I built all the drawer boxes, and then I built the faces of the drawers. Since I took no pictures, you’ll have to pop over to Ana’s blog to see the tutorials on each. Just picture lots and lots of pocket holes, and lots and lots of glue.

Finally, comes painting! It took us about 3 coats, which used up a few days.  Note to self…don’t do built-ins in the dead of winter and force yourself to paint in the basement when you could use your awesome paint sprayer to paint outside saving you tons of time!  Also… don’t decide to do a project that takes over your basement gym right after new years…oops.

basement-painting-zone

Finally we were able to start installing the closet rods on the back wall of the closet and carrying the towers upstairs.

start-tower-install

It took me most of a day to install all the drawers… but alas they finally came together.

drawer-installation

Which is good… because I was going crazy living with this for two weeks.

Messy Bedroom

Check back soon for the final reveal!

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